Jewellery Through the Ages

By Debra Sawatzky

1714-1830: The Georgian Period

Refers to jewellery produced during the reigns of King George III and IV of England.

During this time, jewellery tended to be thin, lightweight, small and restrained. The backs were closed and the marquis shaped diamond cluster ring was the favorite as a gem shape. Gold was used sparingly and in an understated way. The lack of gold inspired the development of the cannetille design.

The main design element was the bow; floral garlands, ribbons and stars were also prevalent. Shoe buckles received elaborate treatments during this period and it was also the time that the Riviere or straight-line necklace was developed in its present form. During the Georgian period the parure, or matched set of jewels (usually a combination of necklace, earrings, bracelet and tiara) of the same design and gem type all made to be worn together, was designed. Heart shaped lockets, sets of keys, the snake biting the tail (symbolizing the eternal union of two people), sevigne bow and girandole earrings were favorite items. For fainting, the vinaigrette was developed.

Jewellery makers favoured diamonds, emeralds, rubies, garnets and pinked topaz, peridot, garnet and citrine, chyrosphase as the stones of choice. Also favoured were enamel, marcasite, micromosaics, paste and foil backed natural glass. Coral was used in children’s jewellery to ward off evil spirits.

It was during the Georgian period that mourning jewellery in square, oval or navette shapes became fashionable. The memorial was in front of the jewellery in the Georgian period moving back to Victorian times. Mourning colours included purple, black, blue and white and often the hair of the deceased was enclosed in the back of a piece of jewellery.

Pearls used to depict tears, white enamel for a virgin or a child and black for a partner were the norm.

Later, in the Victorian time, it became the fashion to create pieces from the actual hair itself.

Simulates for coral and pearls were developed.

In France at the end of the era diamonds were not at the centre stage while in England diamonds were used as accent only.

1837-1901: The Victorian Period

Jewellery produced during the reign of Queen Victoria tended to be divided into three periods.

Romantic Period 1837-1860 (sentiment, symbolism, romance, nature, history)

There was not a big change during this time from the Georgian period. The jewellery contained the illusion of more metal because gold was still in short supply. Bloomed gold
and aluminum were popular.

Coloured gemstones were more popular than diamonds. Pearls in multiple strands,
Ivory, turquoise, vulcanite, jet, amber, lava, bog oak, tortoise shell, coral and goldstone (glass with copper filings) are found. Black glass was used to simulate jet.

Design elements included corsage brooches often en tremblant or with moving parts, seed pearl jewellery, thin necklaces, garter bracelets, memorial rings, ferraniere (a narrow band usually with a jewel worn around the forehead), and long gold chains.

Themes included hearts, angels, floral, four leaf clovers, crosses, crowns, doves and serpents, bows and forget me knots, snake motifs. Scottish motifs of wheat sheaves, sprays of leaves and flowers and the thistle were seen.

Grand Period 1861-1880 (Black)

This period came after the death of Victoria’s husband Albert in 1861 and mourning was mandatory. Diamonds were now in more abundance. Conservative diamond jewellery mounted in silver was worn in the daytime.

A popular honeymoon at the time was the Grand Tour, so souvenir jewellery emerged along with cameos, micromosaics and pique (inlaid gold or silver tortoiseshell).

Themes included Celtic and Scottish images of dogs, horses, birds and insects. Favoured stones included garnet, sapphire and carnelian, opals, amber and peridot . As well, onyx and jet were used in mourning jewellery and the hair of the beloved’s deceased was incorporated into jewellery design.

Items for the ladies in the jewellery box included: earrings, rings, necklaces, necklets, long chains, strands of pearls and beads, lockets, pendant watches, bracelets, brooches, corsage ornaments, posies, diadems, tiara, hair ornaments (aigrettes) cuff buttons and chatelaines, or a scent flask.

Items for the gentlemen included: pocket watches, watch chains with a fob, cigar cutters, cravat pins, rings, cuff and shirt buttons, and vesta cases.

Simulates were glass and doublets or triplets.

Late Period 1880-1900 (Aesthetic)

Jewellery became paint-like and expressive. This was this the response to the formality and overindulgence of fashions of the Grand Period.

The artist merit was valued over preciousness and intrinsic value. The roots of the Arts and Crafts movement began to form. The most popular gemstones used were sapphire opal, aquamarine, turquoise, pinked topaz, garnet, chrysphrase, carnelian, banded agate, malachite, lapis lazuli, bloodstone, moonstone, coloured zircons, peridot, amethyst, citrine, coral, gold in quartz and topaz.

Simulates were doublets and Mikomoto (pearls entered foreign markets in1900).

Jewellery found at this time were festoon and fringe necklaces, bracelets and earrings with stones. Tiara and hair ornaments had diamonds, pearls, coloured stones and were highlighted in polychrome enamels. Hat pin, pins and brooches were made in sterling into motifs of circus characters, Punch and Judy, steamships and bugs.

American firms came onto the scene: New York, Newark, New Jersey, Providence,
Rhode Island, and North Attleborough, Massachusetts and began to establish themselves as a manufacturing centre.

Jewellery became much smaller and favoured such things as reverse crystals, silver, miniature portraits, stickpins, bar brooches and star shaped settings. This was the beginning of a Japanese influence in design.

1880-1914: The Art Nouveau Period

The jewellery produced during this period raised the level of jewellery to an art form.

The design elements are:
1) nature in expressionistic form
2) figure in jewellery

The Japanese design philosophy of combining the simple and expressing the natural essence and nature of the item was used.

During this time a collaboration of graphic artists to sculpture, furniture, jewellery and decorative arts, architects, textile designers, ceramicists toward the look.

In France 18 karat bloomed gold was used to make a handmade item of high degree
of dimension. Silver items were die struck.

In America, die struck items had chasing done by hand giving it a hand constructed look.

The stylized intertwining and curvilinear ornamentation characterized by curves, flowing, natural lines, asymmetry and use of forms and motifs such as a whiplash and the female body. Other motifs included human forms with insects, butterflies, peacocks, grasshoppers and snakes. Design and workmanship was emphasized over intrinsically valuable design and materials.

The Art Nouveau style was started by Lalique and was influenced by Bing. Faberge was also popular during this period and it was during this time that the famous Faberge Egg was developed. Japanese influenced design was popular from 1890 to 1900-1917.

Designers favoured ivory, tortoiseshell, horn, glass, shell, pearl, blister pearl, turquoise, ruby, sapphire, ruby, moonstone, opal in cabochon cuts, diamond and marcasite.

All forms of enameling were present- plique a jour, champleve, cloisoinne, baisse taille, and cabochonniere.

Favoured metals included gold, silver, copper and steel.

1890-1914: Arts and Crafts

Arts and Crafts is a movement that started in 1850 in reaction to the effects of mass production and to the fact that craftsmanship, artistic expression and pride was being removed from the process.

Founders of the movement were William Morris (designer and philosopher) and John Ruskin (writer)

The philosophy of the movement was to re-establish the role and virtues of the craftsman in modern society.

The imitations were the high cost of labour to produce one of a kind items or limited production pieces. Many pieces went unsigned

As the movement gained popularity, Liberty and Co started to mass-produce to satisfy the consumer.

International acceptance of movement:

In Germany and Austria the movement was called Jugendstel. Scandinavia called the movement Skonvirke. Italy called the movement Stile Liberty .The war caused the movement to be short lived in Europe. In the US the movement continued until 1930

The requirement for an item to be considered Arts and Crafts was that it must be made entirely by hand.

Metals used included silver, copper and brass but rarely gold. In America gold was used later in the movement. For three dimensionality, chasing, repousse, piercing and acid etching was used. The gemstones used were mainly cabochon cut- lapis lazuli, tourmaline, jelly opal, garnet, pearl, agate, chalcedony, carnelian, moonstone, garnet, ruby, emerald, sapphire, shell, mother-of- pearl, blister pearl.

Enamel was used. The design motifs include nature, abstract, flowers, garland, peacocks
and the Cymric.

1901-1914: Edwardian

Produced during the reign of King Edwardian VII

The focus was on gemstones, craftsmanship and elegance. It was the return to opulence.

The design is known as “garland,” “white on white”- open trelliswork incorporating the foil form and draped swags of garlands, flowers, olive and laurel leaves. Indian influence added briolette cut stones and the peacock feather and lotus designs.

Five items were developed during this period:

1) Platinum and diamond long chain
2) Platinum and diamond lorgnette
3) Negligee pendant necklace—two pendants of varying length
4) Pearl cautious
5) Dog collar

Other jewellery popular at the time included gate link bracelets, narrow bangles, stick pins, crescents and stars, animal motifs horseshoes, wishbones, doves, hearts, wreaths, hunting scenes, and lockets with enameling (guilloche) or painted enamels.

Metals used were 18 karat or better and platinum, platinum topped gold blackened platinum, blued steel, silver over gold, white gold (after 1915). Mille grain was popular.

Cushion cut and rose cut diamonds used.

The new gemstone cuts were: Portuguese, claves head, trapezoid, triangular, baguettes.

Gemstones used were near colourless stones, diamonds and coloured diamonds.

The three most popular stones were amethyst, peridot and aquamarine followed in popularity by black, white, and fire opals demantiod garnets, Ceylon and Montana sapphires, rubies, emeralds, black onyx, kunzite.

Synthetic sapphire and rubies were caliber cut.

1920-1935: The Art Deco Period

Jewellery produced during the Art Deco period exhibited a geometric and structural appearance and was characterized by geometric, cubic and abstract forms and motifs, fine handicraft and the use of precious metals. The focus was on the visual quality in the design and development of form (Bauhaus school of design: form follows function).
Again, there was an oriental influence in the design that was influenced by the Edwardian period, but was more compact and geometric in colour.

While the jewellery tended to be compressed, and straight and flat in execution, it glorified dramatic plays of colour and the impression of speed.

The metal of choice is platinum marked 100% plat. The US markings were 10% irid.
Yellow gold was used sparingly.

Diamonds were the centre focus with rock crystal, cinnabar, carved hard stone ruby sapphire, emerald lapis lazuli, black onyx, coral, aquamarine and jade as secondary or accent stones. Other stones included marcasite, ivory, bone, bakelite, mother of pearl, glass, synthetic gemstones, tortoise shell, blue zircon. The setting was a pave set.

New shapes of cut include: baguette, trapezoid, half moon, whistle, triangle, and bullet shapes.

Designs included fruit salad clips, double clip brooches, strap bracelets and elegant and ornate cigarette holders. Motifs arrow, bow, door knocker, flower basket, tassel,
skyscraper, sports, temple of love, vase and urn.

This period was the beginning of Name Branding

Designers who made their mark in this period included Van Cleef & Arpels and Tiffany.

1940-1950: Retro

During the Retro time period a move was made towards a grander scale, which has architectural dimensions in form, concave and convex surfaces, bows, ribbons, feathers and flowers.

Gold and silver restrictions were imposed. Copper was added as an alloy to
gold giving it a pink tone. Tricoloured gold was common. 14 karat was mainly used.
Palladium took the place of platinum.

Travel was also restricted. Alternative sources of gemstones were found in Brazil, New Mexico and US on the North American side of the world. The gemstones used were
aquamarine, citrine, peridot, tourmaline. The favorite cuts of stones were
emerald cut and cabochons.

In North America, travel overseas fell out of favor. Travel instead took people to Mexico and silver jewellery made in Mexico became popular.

1950-1960: Cocktail Era

Dean Martin, the Rat Pack and martinis were the pastime.

Elvis came on the scene, along with the Beatles.

Yellow gold was worn during the daytime and platinum at night.

Baguette cut diamonds were set as a waterfall, ballerina and cascading in necklaces and rings. Invisible setting, pave set and masses of diamonds were used. Yellow and cognac diamonds were brought to the scene. Ruby, sapphire, emerald jade and turquoise were used with diamonds.

The gold was textured with braiding, engine turning, Florentine mesh, snake, and twisted or woven designs.

Pearls, either coloured, round or baroque, were the backbone of fashion in triple or multiple strands.

The gift of choice was charms for charm bracelets.

Auction houses begin to recognize items as period and begin to date them.

Today items from the 1960 and 1970’s are still classified as contemporary in many catalogues.

1960 - 1970: “Mod” era

With Twiggy and Woodstock as the milestones of the era, the look was bigger and bolder.

Gold nuggets, Maltese crosses, big beads, pendants of flower power, peace signs, yin/yang and mood rings and cameos were all popular. Slogans like “Make Love Not War” began to appear.

Chandelier and asymmetrical earrings were worn.

Chanel necklaces, Roman coin jewellery, bib and fringe necklaces along with the “gold and diamond look” were popular.

Schiapelleri designs of the ram’s head, bangle watches and Roman coin watches
Are also identified with this era

The bright and psychedelic designs were made of Lucite, Plexiglas and coloured plastics.

The influences of Middle Eastern clothing i.e. harem pants and the medieval influences
were seen in fashion.

The driving watch was introduced.

1970-1980: Groovy Decade

The ethic and peasant look lead the way in fashion. Disco dancing was the favoured exercise.

Gold was deregulated and gold prices skyrocketed leaving it neither feasible nor profitable to use gold in large scale in manufacturing.

Smaller designs emerged. Snake, curb link, serpentine, box links and fox tail chains in lengths of 12 to 24 inches became a staple in the wardrobe. Hoop earrings in gold and sterling silver were worn. Scarab bracelets were seen again. The “me” in this generation started to personalize the items with identification bracelets, initial rings and pendants.

Charm bracelets and open hearts were gift items.

Jade began to sell in forms of elephants, fish, butterflies, and Buddha’s.

Tiger eye, carnelian and onyx was used for the gentlemen rings

The question of the day was “What is your sign?”

Diamonds with coral, carved onyx, turquoise, twisted cords, fabric motifs; silk cords with gemstones, plastics and items with a resemblance to the 1940’s were vogue. The pastime was macramé.

Bugari had ancient coins and Elsa Peretti for Tiffany developed the kidney bean earrings and pendant. “Diamond by the Yard” was marketed.

One major development was the trend of galleries which began to sell jewellery away from the department stores and boutiques. Once again the artistic merit was recognized.

The shock factor look began as “Punk” style. The style has body piercing, metal spikes and studs, black leather dog collars and wrist bands.

1980-1990: Consumer Decade

The Hollywood styles of the 1930-1940’s was back. Princess Diana wore a Butler-
Wilson (costume jewellery designer in England) brooch is the form of a “diamanti” snake
to a rock concert.

Marcasite and silver jewellery appear again. Along with Bakelite jewellery, nautical themes and charm necklaces. “Red Cobra” is the colour of the day along with black and white.

South Sea pearl, aquamarine, rock crystal, emeralds, onyx, peridot, rose quartz, blue topaz, pink sapphires and tourmalines are the gemstones of the era.

Cabochon cut stones along with pave set diamonds is the rage.

Chokers and earrings are seen.

The cut of diamonds are fantasy cuts – fire rose, marigold and Zinnia.

Picasso markets her famous “kiss earrings.”

Watches have pave set, invisibly set dials and diamond watch bracelets.

By the late 1980’s Art Deco style was revived.

-- Debra Sawatzky

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